Karachi, Pakistan
Date:
29/12/2000

PHOTOS
 
Begging children

We enjoyed a delicious dinner with every kind of Pakistani food imaginable at Karachi’s Salt ‘n Pepper Village with Mr. and Mrs. Aftab Ahmed Sethi.


 
Carpets and rugs from all over Middle Asia can be found in almost any price range in Karachi. Street hawkers peddle machine-made rugs, while hand-made ones, antique and brand new, are found in massive warehouse-style stores.

Pro-Palestinian graffiti


 
There are several reminders of the previous British presence in the sub-continent scattered around Karachi.

Built by the British in 1865 as a Victorian masterpiece, Frere Hall has received a major Islamic face-lift by renowned Pakistan artist Sadequain, who also has a gallery inside.


 
Faces of Karachi

Father and son


 
Street life

Built in 1969 with contributions from residents of the Defense area of Karachi, the Masjid-e-Tooba Mosque is 72 meters wide and the pointed minaret in the rear is 70 meters tall.


 
Ablution fountains outside the Masjid-e-Tooba Mosque

This vendor offers coconut to the Pakistanis visiting Jinnah’s tomb.


 
On the first day of Eid-el-Fir, Pakistanis flock to public parks and monuments – this is the Mausoleum of Jinnah, the Father of Pakistan.

Adding more cargo to an already packed bus


 
During the three day celebration of Eid-el-Fir (the small feast), which follows Ramadan (called Ramzan or Ramazan in Pakistan), children and women wear their finest. Notice the henna on the girl’s hand at right.

Functional architecture predominates in Dhobi Ghat, a run-down section of Karachi.


 
Traffic chaos is part of Karachi and the bustle lends a feeling of frenzied energy, which we happen to love, in this packed city of over 10 million.

Many Pakistani men wear vests over their shalwar qamiz (common Pakistan dress of long shirt worn over trousers for both men and women).


 
Thousands of flamboyantly decorated buses cram the streets of Karachi.


 
 
PAIGE'S NOTES
 
29 December 2000 – I'm keen on the bustle and madness of Karachi, but I deplore the pollution. Drove through traffic jam to Dhobi Ghat, where an almost daily, kilometer long laundry parade takes place along the banks of the dry river, but Eid festivities meant people didn't wash today. River that fed this laundry dried up due to a dam built 30 years ago (according to a cabby), and now hoses bring water to the area. The grounds of Jinnah’s Mausoleum were packed with people; Pakistanis are very proud of Jinnah and repeatedly say, ‘If only he'd lived longer to make more of an impact on modern-day Pakistan’. When stopped on a side street for Jim to buy locks and film, I had my first groping experience standing by a spice cart with my back to the street. A scooter stopped behind me and a man grabbed my bottom and then sped off. Since I'm a ‘fast westerner’ in his mind, I'm sure he thinks he didn't offend me!

 
VIDEO
 

AUDIO
 
  Police everywhere (Jim)
  Karachi (Paige)