Gedaref, Sudan
Date: Lodging: Distance: Total:
28/09/2000 Elmotwakil Hotel 160 KM 102349 KM

Thank goodness it’s the end of the rainy season or the muddy roads of yesterday and today would have been completely impassable – just as the Michelin map indicates.

The landscape changed dramatically as soon as we left Ethiopia and crossed into Sudan. Fields of grass later gave way to desert as we neared Gedaref.

The proud owner of a goat and lambs

Our hosts for last night’s lodging – the Sudanese police in the border town of Gallabat. We slept better here than in many hotels as we had electricity for a period, beds with firm mattresses, plenty of water-buckets, a clean outhouse and even a television. The police chief is wearing white.

A water boy in Gallabat takes the corncob stopper out of his sack allowing water to fill the plastic container. He delivers water to villagers every morning.

More vendors in the Gallabat market

Thick, strong Sudanese coffee is filtered by tiny yellow strainers atop small coffeepots. In his left hand is a large bowl of sugar since tea and coffee are taken very, very sweet.

Locals in Gallabat show us how water is poured from water bags carried by donkeys.

28 September 2000 – Since Gallabat, the border town where we crossed, has no hotels the local police invited us to stay with them overnight. Before falling asleep last night, I listened to the outside noises shielded only by a shabby screen covering a decaying window and marveled that Paige Parker from Rocky Mount was going to sleep on a paper-thin mattress laid on a wobbly metal bed inside a Sudanese police station. I slept like a babe in the warm, thick air.


  Roads again (Jim)