Stockholm, Sweden




Inside Millesgarden

Flea markets take over streets of Stockholm on Sundays.

26 September 1999 - Millesgarden, on the island of Lidingo, was home to Carl Milles, who is considered Sweden's premier sculpture of the 20th century. The gardens and terraces are filled with his sculptures - set on several levels with stone steps connecting one extraordinary vista to another.

Upon entering, I was astounded by the vast quantity of attractive, interesting and enormous sculptures on the grounds. Also on display inside Milles' home is his collection of art from ancient Greece and Rome, medieval times and the renaissance. On the grounds, there is a shop filled with small replicas, post cards, posters, books and a café serving coffee, espresso, sandwiches and sweets. An exhibition center will open in 2000.

26 September 1999 - Dinner in a 17th century former home, now restaurant, in the Old Town. The run-of-the-mill décor included stone floors, candles on the tables and cream colored linen napkins. The service, though, was exceptional. The wine list shocked both Jim and me since it was much more expensive than New York. Two French wines that we adore cost US$130 and US$200 and in New York, they would go for US$70 and US$140, respectively. Supposedly, there is no tariff on products from France since both Sweden and France are members of the Common Market. We decided on a nice Australian cabernet that was overpriced but not as absurdly as the French options. Dinner too was costly after the 25% VAT was tacked onto the total.

Still, dinner was delicious. I began with Swedish style marinated salmon, which was simple smoked salmon with a sweet marinade (with mustard seeds for punch) spread lightly on the plate with the salmon and a bed of lettuce resting on top with a lemon slice for garnish. Jim ordered spring rolls filled with marinated salmon with a horseradish cream sauce. At first I was envious over Jim's choice since his was truly delicious, but my salmon was superb - so fresh and perfect with the added lemon juice. For dinner we both ate fillet of reindeer, which was cooked flawlessly, a bit rare. If reindeer is overcooked it tastes strong (I call this horsy taste). On the plate with the reindeer were morels in a light cream sauce and mashed potatoes made with butter and scallions. The meal was an absolute delight.


  Millesgarden and Vasa Museum (Paige)
  Vasa Museum (Paige)
  Millesgarden and Vasa Museum (Jim)